Cooling Guidelines for V8 Engines in Aircraft
by Bud Warren and Phyllis Ridings
Introduction:
The goal of this article is to share our experiences regarding
engine cooling with the Experimental world so that more auto
conversion aircraft can benefit from our successes and failures.
Synopsis:
Auto engines in aircraft operate under constant load and
therefore produce more heat than would be produced in an earth
bound vehicle. With
increased engine load comes increased heat production by the
engine, therefore, an auto engine in an airplane requires
greater cooling capacity than is required for the same engine in
a car or truck. Cooling
capacity must be increased proportionately in order to keep the
engine operating in a temperature range that will preserve the
engine and increase efficiency.
Our description of proper engine
cooling is that a V8 engine in an airplane should never exceed
200°F except momentarily during climb out, cooling off to
170-190°F at cruise, and never exceed 210°F under any but the
most extreme circumstances. High engine temperatures only serve
to fatigue components prematurely, and with proper cooling that
can be avoided altogether. Many
will argue that their engines run just fine at 230-235°F, but we
do know that high engine temperatures such as this will
dramatically shorten the engine life and contribute to engine
failures.
Again, there are those who argue that
our cars run over 200°F and that seems to be alright…but
consider this…auto manufacturers run engines at 200°F and above
in order to satisfy EPA requirements, not because the engines
run better at higher temperatures and certainly not because it
is better for the engine. Any
long time auto racer will tell you that every effort is made to
help racing engines run cool both for engine longevity and for
fuel efficiency.
This system of cooling is based upon
each of the following requirements being met completely. Any one
of these recommendations that are not followed could be reason
enough for the cooling system to fail.
In other words, not one
item mentioned below is optional, and is only variable if it is
mentioned to be. When followed to the letter, this system will
cool a V8 engine in an airplane, every time.
Formulas
The following are the basics upon which we have developed
the best and most complete cooling system that we have ever
seen. When followed,
under just about every circumstance, the aircraft will run cool.
1)
Requirement:
Radiator surface required
is 1.5 sq in of surface
area per cubic inch of the engine.
For example: LS1 V8 Chevrolet = 350 cu in x 1.5 = 525
sq in of radiator surface area required.
For this purpose, this applies only to the surface area
of the radiator that the air flow first makes contact with.
2)
Requirement:
Minimum of 3.0 cu in of cooling volume per HP produced.
For example: We only
utilize up to 300 HP of an LS1 for aircraft use. Using a dual
radiator configuration with two radiators measuring 15” x 18” x
2.25” thick = the total cooling volume is 1215 cu in.
Therefore, our cooling volume to HP ratio: 1215 cu in cooling
volume ÷ 300 HP = 4.05 cu in per HP.
With this formula, we have been able to maintain climb
out temperatures of around 200°F and 190°F at cruise on a 100°F
day. With a cooling system like this, we could taxi from Houston
to Dallas with no overheating problems.
3)
Requirement:
Abandon the
conventional front air inlets and close them off altogether.
Why do we think that front air inlets provide enough air?
Because every airplane you have ever seen with a piston
engine has front air inlets. If we have always used them they
must work, right? We
advocate the use of side cowl scoops to get enough air into the
cowl, and when these are installed, the front air inlets will
literally will negate their value because front air inlets, when
combined with the side air scoops, will set up high pressure in
the cowl, not allowing enough cool air in and not enough hot air
to exit the cowl, and the end result is engine overheating.
On their own, there is not enough air volume through
conventional front air inlets to cool the engine effectively.
One contributor could be
because the root of the prop blade of most propellers does not
have enough of an airfoil shape to move much air and actively
blocks airflow when the blade passes the opening, or because the
boundary layer of air on the surface of the cowl behind the prop
root is too still to provide much air volume into the cowl. With
the increased cooling requirements of a 300 HP V8 engine under
constant load in an airplane, we have found it to be true that
front air inlets do not provide enough volume of air, nor does
it direct what air it does direct to the right spot within the
cowl to effectively cool the radiators and the engine.
4)
Requirement:
Move to the side
of the cowl and add exterior mounted air inlet scoops.
The sides of the cowl
receive large volumes of air from off the prop whether it is
taxiing or flying.
NACA scoops look great, but are recess mounted inside the
profile of the cowl and simply will not force enough air through
the radiators to cool the massive heat produced from the engine.
We have found that to get enough air volume it is
required that exterior air inlet scoops be mounted on the sides
of the cowl. These scoops should cover an opening on the side of
the cowl that is large enough to expose most of the radiator
core to the fresh air stream. Scoops that extend 2” from the
outside profile of the cowl will reach out beyond the quite
boundary layer of air, capturing high velocity air from off the
prop and forcing it through the core of the radiator. Once
through the radiators, the air then circulates around the engine
and out the exit air location.
5)
Requirement:
Fresh air scoop
volume recommended at 20 sq inches per side. The fresh air
scoops we recommend are only 20 square inches in inlet size, and
provide ample air to the radiators when mounted on the side of
the cowl as mentioned above, even when taxiing.
This is not a lot of inlet space.
RV-10’s front air inlets average 36 sq inches per side
for a total of 72 sq. inches. Our fresh air scoops total only 40
sq inches of air inlet. You may experiment with the size of the
scoop inlets but it is always better to have more than not
enough.
6)
Requirement:
Exit air volume.
In order to keep the air moving through the cowl it is
recommended that you utilize 1.5 to 2.0 the amount of the fresh
air inlet for the cowl exit air. Failure to have enough exit air
volume will make the engine run too hot or even overheat.
This is more difficult to
achieve with a retractable gear airplane but must not be
ignored. Ground and
taxi testing may produce successful results, only to have the
engine overheat on climb out due to insufficient exit air volume
now that the gear doors are closed, dramatically cutting down on
the exit air volume.
7)
Requirement:
Baffle only
between the radiators and the cowl to direct as much of the
air from the side cowl scoops through the radiators as possible.
Once the air passes through the radiators, it passes over the
engine and out the exit, also serving to assist in cooling.
A V8 engine radiates a great deal of heat and adding
additional baffling to the inside of the cowl only serves to
inhibit air circulation around the engine, so do not add any
additional baffling or plenums within the cowl.
8)
Requirement:
Use water for
engine cooling, and add only enough antifreeze to keep it from
freezing. Water
takes the most heat energy to change its temperature than
anything else and that makes water the most efficient in terms
of its ability to conduct heat with minimum temperature rise.
Antifreeze, or ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, have higher
vapor points and therefore can absorb heat at higher
temperatures without boiling. However, even with its lower vapor
point, water still carries more heat per unit than other
coolants.
9)
Requirement:
Use the right
radiator cap. An
overlooked or under considered part of the cooling system is the
radiator cap. Use a 22-24 lb radiator cap, which will raise the
water’s effective vapor point. For every point of system
pressure increase, the boiling point of water will increase by
3°F. A higher boiling point will also reduce evaporation loss,
water pump cavitation and heat soak induced after boil. :
10) Requirement: Use all aluminum two pass radiators. We recommend that your high pressure system consist of all aluminum radiators configured to a two pass system, which increases dwell time in the radiator, and enhances heat transfer even more. Hard plumb as much of the water line as you can, using minimal rubber radiator hose for increased durability. The fewer rubber hoses you have to watch over, the better.
11)
To
thermostat or not to thermostat...There
are a couple of schools of thought regarding thermostats in auto
conversions for experimental aircraft.
You are likely aware that Bud Warren has not been an
advocate for using a thermostat.
He has stated numerous times that racers don’t use
thermostats because if it sticks-the race is over. In an
aircraft, this happening has more dangerous implications. His
opinion has always been to eliminate the incidence of a stuck
thermostat by simply not using one.
We have been flying the Ravin 500 with great success since
Oshkosh last year, and we have not been using a thermostat.
During the peak heat of summer we have experienced engine water
and oil temps at climb out not to exceed 200°F, cooling off to
180°-190°F at cruise. This system utilizes a dual radiator setup
and we have been happy with the aircraft performance.
However, in colder weather, engine operating temperatures have
been a lot colder that we would like to see.
These excessively cool temperatures have triggered the
ECU to keep the engine in warm up mode; adding additional fuel
to the cylinders in an attempt to warm the engine and causing it
to run richer than we like. This is turn causes the check engine
light to stay on. We
would rather stop this from happening so that the check engine
light will be available to warn the pilot if there are any other
potentially more vital concerns.
After much thought, Bud decided to install a thermostat in the
LS1 engine of the Ravin 500 to do some test flying.
During cold weather the resulting engine temps have
remained stable at 190°F at cruise, and near 200°F during climb
out; just about what we see during the warm months of the year.
This has corrected the check engine light coming on due to the
engine remaining in warm up mode.
We can’t say unequivocally that we recommend you use a
thermostat in your engine as each situation is different. We
would suggest however, that you carefully determine the correct
stance for you to take regarding using or not using a thermostat
in your engine. It
is a personal decision, with each option offering different
potential results.
Perhaps using a thermostat in the colder months, and replacing
it with the thermostat replacement from Geared Drives during the
warmer months might be a feasible option.
If you choose to use a thermostat, we highly recommend that you
test the thermostat before you install a new thermostat.
This can be accomplished by simply dropping it into some
boiling water to determine that it does indeed open. Once you
take it out of the boiling water it should close again.
This might seem silly, but there have been incidences of
new thermostats not working. In addition, we recommend that you
maintain the coolant in system using the lowest percentage of
antifreeze to water that will keep the engine water from
freezing. Also
supplement with an anti-corrosive additive to condition the
inside walls of the cooling system which may help to maintain
the thermostat as well, and make a note in you POH to change the
thermostat out for a new one periodically.
Bottom line-use a thermostat if necessary if you choose, but do
so with the utmost of care and caution.
If temperatures allow, we recommend that you use the
thermostat replacement to eliminate the potential of a stuck
thermostat altogether.
Use this information in good health and safety, and please
contact us if you have any questions at all at
GearedDrives@yahoo.com,
or call 936-827-5126.